Dinner Theatre: Kanpai Classic’s Tasting Menu
Tucked away on Soho’s bustling Denman Street, Kanpai Classic is not your typical Japanese grill. This sleek, softly lit restaurant with its tableside charcoal grills and whisper-quiet service is home to one of London’s most indulgent culinary experiences: the Wagyu tasting menu. A feast of marbled perfection, precision grilling, and subtle luxury, this menu isn’t just a meal – it’s a performance.
Kanpai is no stranger to acclaim. The concept draws its roots from Taiwan, where its original outpost earned the first Michelin star for a Yakiniku restaurant. Its London counterpart has imported not only top-grade A5 Wagyu but also the same ethos of excellence and elegance.
The tasting menu is a curated journey through every possible expression of Wagyu. Each course arrives with theatrical flair and is cooked to order on personal grills embedded into the tables. Staff, dressed in crisp uniforms and exuding quiet confidence, introduce each cut with knowledge and reverence. From the tender tongue to the rich short rib, from the sirloin to the prized filet, each cut is served at its optimal thickness, seasoning, and grilling time. Diners are gently guided through textures, fat ratios, and ideal pairings with the kind of care usually reserved for high-end wine tastings.
The menu begins with delicate starters – Wagyu tartare topped with caviar and a glint of gold leaf, crisp wagyu-fat chips, and small bites that tease the palate. Each dish is a careful balance of texture and taste, setting the stage for the richer courses to come.
What follows is a procession of premium cuts, each more luxurious than the last. Particularly memorable are the karubi short rib with spicy miso, and the rib finger, best eaten wrapped in lettuce and dipped in sesame sauce. Then comes the showstopper: the “Sugatayaki” – a whole piece of beautifully marbled Miyazaki Wagyu seared, sliced, and served alongside nutty Hokkaido rice in a kamameshi pot. It’s a quiet, meditative pause in an otherwise indulgent progression.
Diners can also select a final steak from a quartet of cuts including picanha, filet, and sirloin. Each is marbled to near-butter levels, with some carrying a staggering 50% fat ratio. The effect is astonishing, rich, melting, and deeply savoury without ever tipping into excess.
The drinks list is no afterthought. Kanpai’s sake offering is extensive and refined, including labels exclusive to the restaurant and bottles aged in wine casks. Those looking to pair with wine will find elegant Pinot Noirs and the occasional glass of grower Champagne, ideal for cleansing the palate between courses.
Dessert arrives with a lighter touch: soufflé cheesecake, chocolate fondant, or a delicate tiramisu—all designed to refresh rather than overwhelm. It’s a subtle and satisfying close to a decadent journey.
At £98.00 to £148.00 per person for the omakase menu, this is an experience that doesn’t come cheap, but every detail, from the service to the quality of beef, feels worthy of the price tag. For those seeking the ultimate celebration of Wagyu, Kanpai Classic delivers a rare blend of spectacle and substance.
Find out more > www.kanpai.london
