The Perfect Escape: Discovering Serenity and Style at Twr y Felin Hotel, St Davids

A luxurious coastal retreat where art, gastronomy, and calm converge on the edge of Wales.

Leaving London behind, we traded the restless pulse of the city for the open skies and coastal calm of Pembrokeshire. The journey felt like a gradual unspooling of tension – mile by mile, the grey gave way to green.

Our route wound through the postcard-perfect harbour of Tenby, where pastel houses hugged the cliffs and the salty air carried the promise of adventure. On the way home, we meandered through Swansea, where the waterfront shimmered beneath autumn light. These Welsh stops framed a weekend that showcased the very best of the country, its charm, culture, and natural beauty, but the heart of our escape lay in St Davids at a cosy hotel.

Welcome to Twr y Felin Hotel, Wales’ first contemporary art hotel, a former windmill turned sanctuary for design lovers, food enthusiasts, and anyone seeking stillness after the rush of urban life.

Arrival: Where Art, Architecture and Tranquillity Meet

The approach to St Davids is stunning. The winding country lanes give way to a small city with a grand cathedral, cradled in a green valley. Just a few minutes’ walk away stands Twr y Felin, its elegant white façade rising gently against the Pembrokeshire landscape. Once a historic windmill, it has been reimagined as a luxury hotel with a modern Welsh soul.

Inside, every hallway is alive with creativity. The hotel houses over 250 commissioned artworks, each inspired by the local coast, light, and texture of the land. Some pieces are strikingly abstract, others quietly reflective – together they create a sense of place that transcends decoration.

Our balcony room was a continuation of this aesthetic, contemporary, calming, and drenched in natural light. The super-king bed promised deep rest, and the private balcony opened out to sweeping views of greenery that rolled towards a glimpse of the sea. The bathroom, complete with both bath and shower, featured Aromatherapy Associates toiletries that turned even the smallest ritual into a moment of indulgence.

The Spa: A Hidden Haven for Two

One of the highlights of our stay was being among the first guests to experience Twr y Felin’s brand-new two-person spa suite, a true hidden gem within the hotel. Designed for intimacy and relaxation, it includes a jacuzzi bath, steam room, and sauna, all softly lit and beautifully finished.

We spent an unhurried morning here, letting time drift by in the warm whirl of the jacuzzi as the steam room’s gentle heat eased away the last remnants of city life. It felt private and luxurious without being pretentious, an idyllic escape for couples looking to unwind together. The space captures exactly what Twr y Felin does best: understated luxury, beautifully delivered.

Blas Restaurant

Dinner that evening at Blas Restaurant was an experience in itself. Holding three AA rosettes, Blas has long been known for transforming local produce into what can only be described as “art on a plate.” The restaurant’s name – “Blas” meaning “taste” in Welsh – is perfectly fitting.

Recently, the restaurant celebrated a new chapter with the promotion of Head Chefs Dan Slipakiv and Gareth Evans, two talents who have honed their craft in some of Britain’s most acclaimed kitchens. Together, they’ve introduced a vibrant new grill and lunch menu that champions Pembrokeshire’s natural bounty, from local seafood to Welsh lamb and seasonal vegetables sourced from trusted farms and fisheries across Wales.

The dining room itself is calm and sophisticated, with soft lighting and a curated selection of artwork that mirrors the creativity of the food. We began with cocktails in the adjoining bar, fresh, beautifully balanced, and accompanied by the gentle melodies of a live pianist, which set the perfect tone for the evening ahead.

Dinner was extraordinary. Highlights from the new grill menu included baby monkfish, delicate and perfectly seared; ribeye steak, rich and deeply flavourful; and a vibrant plate of young leeks with smoked ricotta, which was both earthy and elegant. Every dish showcased an attention to detail that elevated even the simplest ingredients into something memorable.

There’s an honesty to Blas’ approach, the flavours are bold yet precise, the presentation artistic but never overdone. It’s the kind of dining that feels both indulgent and grounded, connecting you directly to the landscape and culture of Wales through every bite.

Dessert was a celebration of craft and comfort: a citrus parfait that balanced sweetness and sharpness with impeccable finesse. Paired with a glass of dessert wine or Port, it was the perfect conclusion to an evening that felt effortlessly special.

The Bar and Evening Ambience

After dinner, we drifted back to the Oriel Lounge Bar, where the pianist continued to play softly in the background. The cocktails here are worth lingering over, inventive without being fussy.

It’s rare to find a hotel bar that captures such balance: sophisticated but welcoming, refined yet relaxed. Watching the last traces of daylight fade beyond the windows, drink in hand, it was easy to forget that London’s noise and neon existed at all.

Exploring St Davids and the Pembrokeshire Coast

The following morning, sunlight filtered through the curtains, and we set out to explore St Davids, which is less a city and more a tranquil village with a cathedral at its heart. The nearby Pembrokeshire Coast Path beckoned – a ribbon of trail that winds past dramatic cliffs, secret coves, and turquoise waters. Even a short walk here refreshes the spirit, but the long coastal walk to Solva is a must-do!

For those travelling with dogs, Twr y Felin now offers Dog-Friendly Bed & Breakfast Stay gift vouchers, making it possible to share this slice of luxury with a four-legged companion. The ground-floor Oriel Unique rooms are specially designed for guests with pets, each opening onto private terraces that lead directly into the gardens, thoughtful touches that make this hotel as welcoming as it is refined.

The Tower Suite and Artistic Soul of the Hotel

Every part of Twr y Felin is a blend of imagination and elegance, but the crown jewel is undoubtedly the Tyddewi Windmill Tower Suite, which occupies three floors of the original tower. From its private observatory, guests can enjoy 360-degree views across the St Davids Peninsula – from the distant Preseli Hills to the islands of Skomer, Grassholm, and Ramsey, which glimmer on the horizon on clear days.

A New Standard for Welsh Hospitality

What sets Twr y Felin apart is its vision. As part of the Retreats Group, the hotel exemplifies what modern Welsh hospitality should be: design-led yet deeply rooted, luxurious yet approachable. The focus on local produce, local art, and local people creates a stay that feels both polished and personal.

Even the smallest details feel deliberate, from the welcoming staff who share tips about hidden coves to the curated playlists and the gentle scent that seems to float through the hallways. It’s an environment designed not just to impress, but to restore.

For those seeking a refined escape from the hustle and bustle of London, Twr y Felin is the definition of the perfect retreat. It offers a rare balance, the serenity of the coast, the sophistication of fine dining, and the inspiration of great art, all wrapped up in genuine Welsh warmth.

From the moment you step through its doors, the world outside softens. Whether you’re soaking in the two-person spa, dining at Blas, or simply gazing out at the endless Pembrokeshire sky from your balcony, you’ll feel as though you’ve discovered something truly special.

B&B at Twr y Felin Hotel is from £180 per night for two sharing a double/twin room. Book a stay and dinner in their AA three rosette Blas restaurant through the Rarebits Collection at www.rarebits.co.uk or call 01570 470785.