Arts

Maray Chester

Liverpool-born small plates favourite Maray has officially arrived in Chester – and after what was genuinely one of my best meals of the year, it’s safe to say the city has gained something special.

Inspired by the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours of Paris’ Marais district, Maray has built a loyal following since first opening on Bold Street 11 years ago. Now, with its fourth site opening right in the heart of Chester city centre, the group brings its bold, flavour-led cooking to one of the North West’s most charming locations. And honestly, it feels like a perfect fit.

The space strikes that sweet balance between relaxed and refined – buzzing but intimate, stylish yet welcoming. There’s an energy to the room that mirrors the food: vibrant, generous and full of personality.

I began with the hot dips and pickles – zhug, harissa, pickled chilli, Moroccan carrots and sumac onions – and it ended up being my favourite dish of the evening. Each element brought something different: heat, acidity, sweetness, spice. The zhug delivered fresh, herbal fire; the harissa was deep and smoky; the pickles cut through everything beautifully. It was the kind of plate that keeps you reaching back for “just one more” scoop.

Next came the lamb kofta, which was an absolute standout. Perfectly seasoned, juicy and rich with warming spice, it managed to feel both comforting and elevated. The balance of char and tenderness was spot on – bold flavours without overwhelming the palate.

And then, of course, the iconic Disco Cauliflower. If you’ve heard of Maray, you’ve heard of this dish. Roasted cauliflower is topped with chermoula, harissa, yoghurt, tahini, pomegranate, parsley and almonds – a riot of colour and texture. Nutty, creamy, sweet, sharp and spiced all at once, it’s easy to see why it’s become their signature. Three plates in total were perfect for me – generous without tipping into excess.

Dessert was the medjool date bread and butter puddingm and what a finisher it was. Indulgent, sticky and deeply comforting, it delivered richness without feeling heavy. The natural caramel notes of the dates worked beautifully against the soft custard and crisp top. It’s the sort of dessert that makes you pause mid-conversation.

The cocktails here are also a must. My favourite was the Greek olive oil washed Beefeater London Dry gin with Lillet Blanc, Angostura Orange and house brine. Silky and savoury with a subtle citrus lift, it was expertly balanced and completely unique.

Leading the Chester opening is General Manager Benjamin Redwood, formerly of Porta Tapas, alongside Head Chef Will Cole, previously of London’s The Barbary and The Barbary Next Door. With that calibre of experience behind it, it’s no surprise the food feels so confident and polished.

Maray Chester isn’t just another opening – it’s a bold, flavour-packed addition to the city’s dining scene. If this visit was anything to go by, it won’t be long before it becomes one of Chester’s most talked-about tables.

Find out more > www.maray.co.uk