Finally, a restaurant worth the hype: Appalachia, Shoreditch
Inside the former home of Counter 71 on Nile Street, Appalachia has quickly become one of the most exciting new openings in Shoreditch – and after a visit this week, it’s easily one of my favourite restaurants I’ve reviewed in some time.
The concept draws on the rich, layered culinary traditions of the Appalachian region of the United States, where migration, resilience and adaptation shaped a cuisine that’s equal parts heritage and reinvention. That spirit runs through every element of the experience, from the intimate open-plan, small-counter dining room right through to the food itself.
Leading the kitchen is Head Chef Alistair Borer, formerly of Smoking Goat, and it’s clear from the very first bite why he’s so well regarded. Borer brings his background in fire-led, Thai-influenced cooking into conversation with deep, heritage-driven Appalachian produce, and the result is a menu that feels both bold and rooted. Watching him work at the counter added an extra layer to the meal.
We started with the Cheddar and Jalapeño Cornbread Madeleines, a playful, moreish opener. From there, the British Oyster with Chow Chow Mignonette was a bright, punchy standout, while the Tongue and Head Skewer with Oyster Sauce Glaze and Pork Rinds delivered exactly the kind of bold, textural cooking Borer is known for. The Beef Tartare Tostada with Pickled Cucumber and Lime was another highlight – light, zingy and perfectly balanced.
For the main event, the Butter-Brined Half Chicken with Miso Grits and Black Pepper Gravy was really spectacular. Deeply savoury, comforting and beautifully executed. To finish, the Peach and Rhubarb Cobbler with Milk Ice Cream offered a comforting, nostalgic close to the meal, with just the right balance of sweetness and tartness.
The drinks programme is just as considered. The bar, led by Fraser Stancombe (previously of Three Sheets Soho), delivers a refined yet approachable cocktail list rooted in Southern American storytelling – think the Banana Pudding Sazerac and the Kentucky 75, a clever cross between a French 75 and a Mint Julep. What impressed me most, though, was the wine list. Overseen by Head Sommelier Harry Cooper, it’s a genuinely excellent selection, with small allocations and a generous by-the-glass offering that encourages exploration. A particular highlight was the range of 0% options on offer – genuinely glorious, and a rarity to see done this well in a restaurant of this calibre.
Appalachia is a really good restaurant. Co-owners Camilla Meshiea and Ryan Sheehan, alongside Borer, Stancombe and Cooper, have created something genuinely distinctive on the London dining scene. If you haven’t been yet, put it firmly on your list – this is Shoreditch dining at its most exciting.
Find out more > www.appalachia.co.uk
