Moi Soho
London’s Soho is never short of new restaurants, but every so often a place arrives that immediately feels like it belongs. MOI, which opened at the end of July on Wardour Street, is one of those. I went in with curiosity and left convinced I’d just had the best Japanese meal of my year so far. Everything from the food to the design to the small details – even the restrooms, which are genuinely worth a mention – made it a memorable evening.
The first thing that strikes you on entering is the design. The space has been put together with a clear eye for texture and atmosphere: reclaimed woods, raw concrete and soft pools of lighting that give warmth without fuss. At the front there’s a bar with high-top seating, relaxed and lively, while towards the back the chefs are on show at large kitchen islands and a hearth-style grill. A spiral staircase in poured concrete sweeps you down to the lower level, which feels darker, more intimate, and perfectly suited to late-night dining or drinks. Here you’ll find the sushi counter and an Omakase bar, as well as a hidden lounge called the Listening Room, which takes inspiration from Tokyo’s underground music dens.
The menu is the work of executive chef Andy Cook, alongside head chef Nick Tannett. Cook spent five years in Japan and a decade working with Gordon Ramsay, while Tannett comes from some of London’s most respected kitchens. Their combined skill shows in a menu that looks familiar but tastes completely fresh. It’s Japanese in spirit but deeply rooted in British ingredients, with plenty cooked over fire. The duck dumplings with Tokyo turnips and wasabi duck fat were rich, delicate and perfectly balanced. A Tamworth pork chop with roasted peach and karashi mustard felt indulgent but lightened by that sweet-sharp contrast. The Cornish lobster with peas and clam broth was as good a seafood dish as I’ve eaten in London, delicate yet full of depth.
The sushi and sashimi deserve equal praise. Crab temaki with a hint of apple was light and playful, while the trout nigiri was simple and clean, lifted by chives and sesame. A mackerel crudo, sharpened with yuzu, stayed with me long after the meal ended. What makes the food here so satisfying is the quiet confidence – nothing feels over-worked, yet everything has its own distinctive twist. They even make their own miso, soy and fermented pickles in-house, which adds a layer of authenticity you can taste.
Drinks are every bit as carefully considered. The cocktail list is inventive and clever without feeling like it’s trying too hard. Each drink plays with Japanese techniques but uses local ingredients, and the result is a line-up that feels fun and surprising. My cocktail was one of the most creative I’ve had this year – balanced, beautiful and memorable. There’s also a thoughtful wine list, heavy on biodynamic and low-intervention bottles, alongside sake and shochu pairings that have been chosen to bring the best out of the food.
Downstairs, the Listening Room takes things a step further. It’s an intimate space with lounge seating and a bespoke sound system, set up for both dining and music events. The vibe is stylishly low-lit, with vinyl residencies and one-off DJ takeovers planned throughout the year. It’s rare to find a restaurant where food, drink and music all feel part of the same story, but here it works seamlessly.
The team behind MOI is serious about hospitality. Entrepreneur Artem Login has pulled together an impressive line-up, with Cook overseeing the kitchen, Dino Koletsas running the drinks programme after stints at the Artesian Bar and Harrods, and Giulia Cappuccio ensuring the service runs with polish and charm. The result is a restaurant that feels thought through in every detail, from the welcome at the door to the way a dish is placed in front of you.
MOI might be new, but it already feels like it has set down roots in Soho. It’s stylish without being intimidating, creative without being gimmicky, and its food is the kind you can’t wait to eat again. For me, it was a rare meal where everything came together perfectly – the atmosphere, the drinks, the design and, most importantly, the food. This is Japanese dining seen through a London lens, and it’s exactly what the city has been waiting for.
Find out more > www.moirestaurant.com
