James Cochran Brings Sunday Roasts to Old Fountain, Old Street

There are Sunday roasts, and then there are the kind that people actively plan their weekends around, and get excited for, and James Cochran’s revival of his much-loved 1251 roasts firmly falls into the latter category. Now taking over Sundays at Old Fountain, this is a return that’s been quietly building serious momentum, and after one visit, it’s easy to see why.

The pub itself is a gem. Tucked away but full of charm, Old Fountain strikes the perfect balance between traditional and lively, with the added bonus of a hidden roof terrace that feels like a bit of a London secret. On a sunny afternoon, paired with one of their 25+ beers on tap, it sets the tone for a leisurely, indulgent Sunday.

We started by sharing the jerk scotch egg, which immediately set expectations high. Crisp on the outside, with a perfectly cooked yolk, it delivered a gentle heat and depth of flavour that felt both comforting, a strong opening note that hinted at the creativity behind the menu.

Then came the roasts. We opted for both the chicken and the beef, purely to experience the full range – and it did not disappoint. The beef, a combination of 45-day aged sirloin and slow-braised shin, was the standout: deeply flavoured, meltingly tender, and clearly treated with the kind of care that defines a great roast. The chicken, meanwhile, was beautifully cooked – juicy, well-seasoned, and elevated by thoughtful accompaniments.

And those accompaniments deserve their own moment. Beef fat crisp potatoes were exactly as good as they sound – golden, crunchy, and impossible to stop picking at. The Guinness cauliflower cheese brought a rich, slightly malty depth that made it feel indulgent without tipping into heaviness – maybe one of my favourite cauliflower cheeses I’ve had! Buttered swede added a subtle sweetness, while the Yorkshire puddings were gloriously airy and made for soaking up the bone marrow gravy – another star of the plate. Even the Caesar hispi cabbage felt considered, adding freshness and bite to balance out the richness.

Just when it felt like things couldn’t get more indulgent, dessert arrived in the form of a sticky toffee knickerbocker glory. It’s exactly as over-the-top as it sounds, in the best possible way. Sweet, nostalgic, and unapologetically decadent, it was the perfect ending to a meal that leans fully into Sunday comfort.

What James Cochran has created here isn’t just a roast – it’s an experience. It captures everything you want from a Sunday: generous food, bold flavours, and an atmosphere that encourages you to linger. Safe to say, this is one “hot ticket”.

Find out more > www.oldfountain.co.uk