A (tiny) Pilgrimage Worth Taking | WILD Restaurant, Berkhamsted
There’s only one thing that will get me out of London, late, on a Friday, and that’s a sensational meal. That’s exactly why heading to WILD Restaurant was worthwhile. It might sound like it’s in the middle of nowhere in Berkhamsted, but it’s actually a very easy trip – and completely worth it. This ended up being one of my favourite restaurant visits of the year so far.
From the minute I walked in I was swept into the kitchen with a flourish to talk about the farm to table concept. Matt Larcombe’s cooking is rooted in the restaurant’s own farm, and you can feel that in how everything tastes. It’s very ingredient-led, very seasonal, and refreshingly unfussy while still being precise.
I was dining solo, which can sometimes be a bit drab on a Friday night, but here it completely worked. The menu is built around sharing plates, but I never felt awkward ordering for one, if anything, it meant I could just follow my instincts and try what I wanted.
The crab with hash brown and apple was the perfect way to start, light, a bit sweet, a bit sharp, and really well balanced. Then came the mushroom parfait with puffed rice, which I’d go back for alone. It’s their signature dish and you can see why – rich, savoury, properly moreish, with that crunch on top that just makes it.
The pollock crudo with citrus and jalapeño was clean and fresh, with just enough heat to wake everything up, and then the venison – from Knebworth – was sensational. Really well cooked, quite deep in flavour, but still controlled. I also had a celeriac dish with pickled walnut which, honestly, could have been a highlight anywhere else, but made a great accompaniment. Although here, vegetables are never an afterthought.
Pudding was a wild farm honey cake with milk ice cream, which was drool-worthy, even after all those other dishes. I was certainly full and content by the end.
A big part of what made the evening, though, was the wine. Rémi Cousin (formerly Head Sommelier at The Fat Duck and Le Gavroche!) completely changed the experience for me. I was on my own, and he just became my compadré for the night – suggesting pairings, pouring things I probably wouldn’t have picked myself, and making it all feel relaxed and personal. There’s a serious wine list there, but it never felt intimidating – I even got to try some super rare wines from an intimate event the night before.
For me, WILD is a perfect restaurant. Staff that know their stuff, it’s clear the chef is keen to invest in his service, which is paramount to coming back again and again. You can taste the freshness of the ingredients and I really appreciate the moves they are making to remain sustainable and seasonal, without compromising on any flavour.
The perfect excuse to get out of London and have an experience that will last in your memories for a very long time after.
Find out more > www.wildrestaurant.co.uk
