Bills, Kingston Review
The newly refurbished Bill’s in Kingston, doesn’t disappoint. I have to admit, I’d never visited the old one, but being a customer at other Bills in London, I could immediately tell the upgraded interiors here. The place had been finished with a relaxed, but high end vintage feel. Chandeliers, a hint of wicker, quirky wallpaper and green velvet adorn the space. Plants and a eclectic mix of ornaments and “stuff” adorn the shelves and walls, that looks over the River Thames on Kingston Riverside. Inside it’s bright and airy, and even though the light comes from the glass frontage the back of the restaurant retains a light and airy feel.
I had no pre-conceptions about the food. Having only eaten Brunch in Bills beforehand, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the dinner. Modern British was my take, something I’m not a big fan of when it’s heavy or veers more towards pub food, so I was pleasantly surprised by the fresh and light feeling of the dishes, that could have been made much more stodgy.
We started with Crispy Calamari and Halloumi Sticks, both of which could have been over fried, but neither were. They were cooked to perfection, the halloumi came with a chutney and the calamari a garlic mayo which was a personal favourite. The calamari was breaded, which gave it texture and a welcome change from the deep fried alternative I’m used to.
The dishes arrived on chic granny style plates, mismatched for extra effect. Naturally we tested a white Organic Pinot Grigio, which was served a little warm for my liking, but was easily rectified by an ice bucket and some patience.
Mains were fish pie (another British classic) with a side of peas, interestingly served cold and crispy, which made a nice texture difference from the pie. The fish in the pie was plentiful, and in large chunky pieces, and again despite the potential heaviness of the dish it tasted fresh and less fatty than the ingredients may suggest! My friend ate the sirloin, which is reported as cooked to perfection, and a good cut of meat. We both shared fries, a personal must at all dinners for me!
Weirdly, and I credit the cooking, we still had room for dessert, and so opting for the Apple & Salted Caramel Crumble and Triple Chocolate Brownie, we proceeded with enthusiasm toward our food coma. The triple chocolate was just that, chocolate heaven, with a flake on the side, should you want more. Sadly for me, the crumble was a little lacking in depth, I like a good 3:1 ratio of apple verses topping, but being served in a very shallow crockery there wasn’t really enough depth. But that didn’t stop me finishing it, and the jug of custard served separately!
Overall, I was impressed by the food, a fresh and none “stodgy” take on British classics, that was served in a beautiful setting, off quirky plates with the view of the river. I’ll definitely be returning in summer, to do that all again but with a pimms in hand and the sun on my face!
Website: https://bills-website.co.uk/restaurants/kingston
Written by Polly Robin
