The Test Kitchen Review
Tuesday night ONIN.London visited twice Michelin-awarded Chef Adam Simmonds’ inventive new Soho Pop-Up, The Test Kitchen. For one year, the intimate dining area which allows only 23 covers is expected to be in high demand. The menu evolves and develops depending on guest feedback, in preparation for Adam’s first permanent London restaurant next year.
You are seated at a gorgeous marble counter top facing an open plan kitchen which gives you full view of Adam and his team create the food you’re about to eat. Adam began his career apprenticing at Le Gavroche, where he trained under some of the biggest names in the culinary world before taking on a role at Manoir aux Quat’saisons under Raymond Blanc. Adam achieved his first Michelin star as Head Chef at Ynshir Hall Hotel in Wales before moving on to Danesfield House in Marlow where he gained a star for the second time, which the restaurant held for three consecutive years. Pretty impressive stuff.
Our 5 plate sharing menu consisted of the following dishes.
- Heritage tomatoes, burata, olive, courgette
- Cured red mullet, green tomatoes, rocket, fresh almonds,
- Pork belly, salt baked pineapple, sunflower seeds, turnip
- Carre du berry, pineapple, rosemary, tapioca crisp
- Yellow Peach, Raspberry, Sorrel
The food was flavoursome and fresh. Our favourites were the Cured Red Mullet, the Pork Belly and the dessert. Though there were some unusual ingredients which made some of the dishes a tad interesting. Sorrel, Carre du berry and burata did add something a little extra to the dishes.
It was interesting watching our dishes being prepared, but I think I prefer not knowing how my meal is cooked. The kitchen can be a high stress environment and I sometimes felt this intruded into our meal. Furthermore, a group of 5, who arrived late put the kitchen in a little bit of disorder and caused us to wait a little while for our food. Despite this, staff were extremely friendly and apologised for any wait we had on our dishes. We were also able to enjoy a gorgeous white wine.
After our meal, we were given the opportunity to fill in a survey and help shape the menu of Adam’s permanent restaurant. An interesting concept which I think could be expanded on in the future. So come on down, check out The Test Kitchen and you too could help shape the future menu.
Reporter: Tegan LeBon
Twitter and Instagram: @toogs1
Open Monday – Saturday for lunch and dinner à la carte, alongside a £29 four-dish set lunch menu. Reservations: www.testkitchen.co.uk or telephone 020 7734 8487.
The Test Kitchen 54 Frith St, Soho, London W1D 4SL www.thetestkitchen.uk Twitter: @The_TestKitchen Iinstagram @the_testkitchenuk
