A weekend in Bath and surrounding areas
Now, I might be biased. I was born in Bath and raised in Chippenham. A proper West Country bumpkin. Although you wouldn’t know it from my accent. But, all in all, I have a pretty good opinion of the West Country. Admittedly it’s always surprising to see it appear in films such as Stardust and Harry Potter still.
Back to the point of this piece, if you really want to get out of London – and who doesn’t – hop on the Great Western Service from Paddington, and you’ll find yourself in one of the most beautiful areas in the UK, Somerset (and Wiltshire for the sake of this article).
We were feeling particularly City’d out and decided to take mum for a stellar Mother’s Day weekend. Starting in Bath, we embarked on an epic weekend, and I’m going to give you the best road map for the ultimate West Country staycation.
What to do:
On arrival into Bath, I implore you to take a look around from the platform. I guess coming from somewhere, you get a bit desensitised to your surroundings, but Bath Spa train station has to have one of the best views you’ve ever seen. Rolling hills, Bath stone properties and, in a rare case, sun drenched skylines. Truly beautiful. Upon leaving, have a meander through Southgate, a dedicated shopping district which is fairly new in comparison to the historic buildings you will see.
On our journey to our first activity, we did pop into Bath Abbey which is an absolute must. Stunning historical architecture, paired with the almost eeriness that is reserved for religious buildings. It’s a really lovely spot to just sit with your thoughts and explore your inner peace. Thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing.
This set the tone of the next stop. If you’re familiar with the wonderful history of Bath, you’ll know it’s one of the most historical cities in the UK. The city of Bath is actually situated on one of the natural hot springs. Legacy says that Roman Emperors and royalty would travel here on horse back to bathe in the warm (and rumour has it) swampy (ew) waters. If that doesn’t get you hot and bothered, I know what will. A trip to the admittedly, much more luxurious, Thermae Spa.
On entry, we were welcomed with the warmest of welcomes to our session. There are a number of packages to choose from, but if visiting on a weekday, a two-hour session is more than sufficient. My suggestion would be to start on the base level pool, on entry the water is more than warm, and less than hot. Bath water temperature perhaps (haha). A float around this relaxing pool is just what the doctor ordered.
Next up, head to the level with the steam room and saunas. There are several to choose from that offer different experiences, temperature levels and scents and there really is something for everyone. Next, when you start to get a bit wrinkly, that’s the perfect time to stop off in the café for a tea and cake (or in my case prosecco). I was really pleasantly surprised with the amount of gluten-free options! You also get an extra half an hour on your entry if you stop off in the café which is a nice add.
Finally, jewel in the crown is a visit to the rooftop pool. Heated, and with sweeping views of the city, this is a truly must-visit attraction in Bath. Embody those Emperors, but do it in style.
Where to eat:
Suitably soaked and relaxed, led way to hunger. We wanted to see as much of Bath as possible so ventured up the high street. A swift visit to Knoops, in my opinion, the UK’s best ever hot chocolate shop, curbed our immediate hunger. It’s here you can try one of over 20 different percentage hot chocolates with the addition of steeped herbs such as rosemary! I can’t wax lyrical enough about Knoops, and they’ve recently opened two, yes two, new shops in the same city in Edinburgh – I think that says it all really.
Onwards and upwards (literally, Bath is very hilly), we visited the beautiful Beckford Bottle Shop. One, this venue is stunning. An almost library and living room style interior with shelves upon shelves of fine wines. If you like wine, this is a must visit! What I didn’t realise, was how good they do wine, is how good they do food too. We tried a couple of small plates and can’t sing the praises enough of the Sardines on Toast, paired with a gorgeous English Sparkling Wine – salty, delicious, wonderful.
We also tried some of the specials including a beautiful Sea Trout topped with parsley and Wood Smoked Pigeon. It was hard to leave with the wonderful service and sun pouring through the windows and onto the delightful alfresco terrace, but alas, we had a lunch booking.
Onwards (and actually back downwards, remember Bath is very hilly), to Bar + Block. Now, I’m familiar with Bar + Block from London, as they are typically paired as the restaurant of choice for Premier Inn’s. Don’t let that be the only reason to visit though!
The Bath restaurant’s interiors were lovely, cowboy rustic, just what you want from a steakhouse. Our server was more than friendly, in fact, I think we were minutes away from asking her to join us. Beware, the popcorn, which is topped with some kind of meaty salt, should be illegal it’s so good. We opted to go just for a main course as we had indulged in some starters from Beckford, and opted for a delicious 8oz Sirloin (there is a 12oz for the hungrier), with a legion of sides. Think, Garlic Prawns, Garlic Canadian Scallops, Beef Dripping Triple Cooked Chips, Beer Battered Onion Rings, Truffle Mac and Cheese, Garlic Spinach and Garlic Mushrooms. I know what you’re thinking, that’s a lot of garlic – never.
The meal was faultless, everything was perfectly cooked, seasoned and presented. I was also shocked at the value of the meal. They also do a fabulous bottomless brunch, which our server (also now best friend) told us gets suitably lairy, and I can’t think of a better way to recommend this activity. Puddings were yummy and indulgent; wine was full bodied and reasonably priced. Chef’s kiss really.
Where to stay:
What with all this relaxing, and eating and drinking, one must find a spot to rest a weary head – and I think we may have found the best place. A short drive or taxi from Bath is the town of Melksham. Just outside of that is the wonderful and stunning Beechfield House.
This Four Star property is locally loved and famed for its beautiful outdoor heated swimming pool. Unfortunately, we were slightly out of season, but it provided a stunning backdrop to our elegant room, which had a bath, more importantly. With feather soft sheets, we knew it would be a sleep to remember.
Prior to sleep, we explored the property and discovered several elegant event spaces, apparently the property is very popular for weddings, and a beautiful outdoor garden overlooking the pool. There was even a charming wooden pool bar, we’re certainly planning on returning for the summer season!
At the front of the property is a charming living room with a roaring fireplace, which was where we parked ourselves for the evening. Our charming waiter was attentive and friendly, despite serving to a busy dinner service in the dining room, but he kept us suitably topped up with a stunning malbec throughout the evening. Breakfast was superb, a perfectly cooked full English, paired with a generous buffet with fresh fruit and juices. We can’t recommend this property enough. The rustic and traditional charm leaves you with a memorable experience.
Have an extra day?
As mentioned, my home town is nearby, so I had the luxury of staying the whole weekend. But, if you can extend your stay by an extra day, I absolutely implore you to. A short drive is Bowood House, a beautiful Manor House & Gardens with an epic kid’s play area and death slide if you need something to entertain young ones. Do check seasonality.
We would have rushed straight to Bowood as a family favourite, but as it was out of season, we instead visited Westonbirt Arboretum. Looked after by Forestry England, Westonbirt is a stunning outdoor space, home to 2,500 different plant species from the far corners of the globe and five national tree collections. The ideal spot to shake off the cobwebs and breathe in that non-city air, the space offers a tree top walkway, a lovely café that serves wine (for you city types) and a Gruffalo hunt for kids. What’s not to love?
If you’re still not sold on the beautiful West Country, well, you must be mad…
Please head to www.visitbath.co.uk for further information on visiting the city and the surrounding area.
